William & Kate

The Midlands is in the South African province of KwaZulu Natal – the province most often associated with the early British settlers, and the scene of many of the most notable battles of the Anglo-Boer wars. So much so in fact that it is often referred to by locals as the last outpost of the British Empire.

On this, the wedding day of Britain’s Prince William and Kate Middleton, it is only appropriate that we acknowledge this milestone in their lives by acknowledging also the Brit connection, and wish them luck – for they are (so far) jolly good fellows.

This Union Flag, probably a remaining reminder of South Africa’s hosting of the 2010 Soccer World Cup somehow looked suitably colonial and historic, contrasted against a deep blue South African sky. It’s slightly tattered state, yet ability to fly proudly out there is to me a fitting metaphor for Britain’s royals.

Howick Falls & Gorge 4

As the sound of the cascading waters of the Falls gets louder you'll know you're near the end of your walk (unless, as I did, you have decided to go boulder hopping some way further down the river and deeper into the gorge). The well trodden path leads out to the banks of the Umngeni River, and a well chosen viewing site for a closer look at the spectacle than you will get from the earlier shown viewing deck. I cannot understand man's apparent need to litter - there is a plentiful supply of bins both along the path and at this clearing. Yet, empty bottles and detritus of human life, some presumably washed downstream by the river are all too evident. The guide was clearing some away, as on occasions do a group known as Friends of the Falls - but this should surely not be necessary. Arrival at the view is reward enough for the effort of the walk, and I was fully aware that I had signed an indemnity on entering the gorge - but my boulder hopping excursion was irresistible. It is not dangerous, but do be aware you're out there on your own. The area guide provided in the price of entry had seen me going downstream, and on encountering him some time later on my return to the top he commented that he had been looking out for me, knowing I had been there for a while. That's reassuring!

Returning to the original footpath there is an extension of the trail that leads right to the pool below the cliffs - your final prize, and the end of the rainbow. You'll notice evidence that at times the river must obviously take an an additional path - the second, to the viewer's left of the main fall, runs when rains have been very heavy. 

I can wait.

I guess every photographer doing landscape work dreams of a getting a perfect shot over an expanse of completely still clear water, where the mirror effect of the reflection almost makes the image reversible. Despite the muddiness of the river below the falls, due to the heavy late autumn rains, I think I'm making progress.

Howick Falls & Gorge 3

Continuing through the undergrowth of the forest leading down into the Howick Falls Gorge, the sound of the falls is hardly noticeable. But, I do now know what a babbling brook is - for the Karkloof stream babbles alongside the path for much of the way. River otters can apparently be seen in the waters if you're lucky enough to spot them. Also present are rock hyrax (dassies), vervet monkeys (not to be fed) and bushbuck. Bird life is not plentiful under the canopy, but from time to time you'll spot a feathered friend darting through the growth, and eagles are known to prey on the smaller mammal inhabitants. 
Do take time to also appreciate the smaller wonders of nature. Some of the most elaborate spider webs I've ever seen were here, and myriad multi-coloured insects scurry beneath the decomposing mulch of fallen leaves and bark. The ferns and fungi are plentiful too and often provide a surprising colour burst against the greens and browns of the foliage (and the mud). Coming from the Falls' viewing platform it is interesting to note how different the vegetation is through this east facing (and therefore shadier) side of the gorge. The sunnier, warmer and drier western facing side tends to have more Paperbark Acacia grassland and aloe vegetation. Sadly a number of alien invader plants threaten the indigenous forests especially the vigorous and rapid seeding balloon vine.
Again (as in yesterday's posting) the lighting on this walk can be challenging, and I found my best shots were taken where either the light filters in rays through the trees, or where the shade was solid allowing a consistent light reading.

Howick Falls & Gorge 2

If you want more spectacular views of the Howick Falls and the gorge through which the waters of the uMngeni River flow on towards the sea (and who doesn't?), put on your hiking shoes or boots, and head to the Gorge Walk. The footpath laid out for you will take you through some spectacular riverine forest, with grottos and the meandering Karkloof Stream alongside you most of the way. It is usually damp and so shoes with a good grip are a necessity, but like a winding Alpine road the thoughtfully plotted path ensures that no slope is unmanageable for even the youngest and most novice hiker. The entire walk to the foot of the falls can be done in an hour (or less) if you're in a hurry, but my bet is that if (like me) you want to explore a little further along the gorge than the end of the public footpath allows, or simply soak in the atmosphere - you'll need a little more time. It's worth it.

This image gives you some idea of the conditions you'll find along the way. With much dense undergrowth, there are also areas where the light streams through making brilliant shadowy contrasts - be sure to check your camera's exposure and white balance to get the most effective lighting effects.

Howick Falls & Gorge 1

This week will be dedicated to the Falls and its gorge. The 95 metres high, single drop Howick Falls on the uMngeni River are probably the most well known attraction of this small (but fast growing) Midlands town. Known for its restorative air, Howick has for many years been a popular choice for convalescents and today the area boasts a couple of luxury spas, many B+Bs, country inns and lodgings, and ongoing upmarket retirement and leisure developments. And, if any visitor has but one enduring memory of the place it is of the spectacular waterfall.

The town was named in 1850 after the family seat of the British Colonial Secretary at the time of its establishment, the third Earl Grey (Henry George), (son of the eponymous tea Earl) – Lord of Howick (in Northumberland).

This first view of the falls is one well known to the drive-by tourist, the falls as seen from the public viewing deck. Although it is an attractive vista, as a declared national heritage site I often wonder what the foreign visitor makes of the backdrop of the partially tree-screened, disused Dunlop factory and the ever present local washer women with their multicoloured laundry draped across the rocky crest of the falls cliffs. Laundry activities in the river however are nothing new – historic photographs of early settlers show that they too found the location to be a natural Laundromat.

On a clear sunny day such as this there is little required of a photographer to get a good image in 1/380s, other than the ability to set the camera to ASA 100, use an f stop of 5, a focal length of 4.6mm, aim and press the shutter. Nature (and those washer folk) provides the rest.

Easter ...

The Howick Choristers, guest soloists John Butler and Brother Sibonile Mbanjwa, accompanied by organist Robin Walton all under the leadership of John Tungay gave a most beautiful rendition of Sir John Stainer's Easter oratario The Crucifixion in two venues in Howick this week. Not a work I'd heard before, I attended a performance in St Joseph's Catholic church. From the superb choral work (including the a capella piece "God So Loved The World"), to the haunting conversational tone of the tenor and bass duets it was a musical treat and a reminder of what Easter means to Christian believers around the world. The local community has a real asset in this dedicated group of musicians.

During an earlier visit to St Luke's Anglican church, a haven of quiet off the often bustling Main Street of the town, I had noticed a well weathered rustic wooden crucifix in the Garden of Remembrance alongside the church. Adorned with a crown of thorns, someone had placed a small sprig of red pentas flowers in the crown. With a red rose bush planted at the base of the cross (bearing a solitary bud today) the symbolism is self evident.

To all Christian readers - Easter tidings.

Green is this valley ...

Amongst the man made forests of the Midlands, beautiful as they are, lies an even greater attraction for the lover of indigenous forestation. It is the Karkloof Forest and Nature Reserve. This area (largely on privately owned land) extends over some 930 hectares, and is categorised as mistbelt forestation. Indigenous trees found include Yellowwoods (Podocarpus Latifolius - amongst other varieties) and Stinkwoods, so named because of the strong smell of their wet timbers. Ancient cycads too abound - and it's a treat to see them thriving in their natural surroundings The area is also rich in birdlife, with some endemic species and there is a crane conservancy protecting the endangered Wattled Cranes of the area. It is estimated there are only some 230 of these birds remaining in South Africa's wilds. 

A great (if pricey) way to see the forest canopy is with a commercial canopy tour experience. Not far from the better known Howick Falls, in this valley are found the Karkloof Falls, and although not as high as their near neighbour they run in considerably more pristine surroundings. We'll get to the falls, but it is the vegetation and sheer rock cliffs of the valley that will first capture your attention.

Standing close to the edge of the cliffs facing the falls, I wanted to capture the drama of the forests and the valley, the endless variety of greens, and the almost luminosity of the cycads as they seemed to glow in the noonday sun. By focussing the lens on a nearby branch the depth of field resulted in just the effect I wanted.

St Andrews ...

There is a danger that I could end up doing a series of images titled The Churches of Midlands County, as it seems that almost every named Midlands farming area settled in the late 19th century had its own small community chapel. Whereas the skyline of many a small South African town is dominated by the spire of a church (usually of the Dutch Reformed faith) these smaller country places of worship are both more modest and more isolated. Such is the small church of St Andrew's in the Dargle Valley. The original was built in 1882; the present red brick structure dating from around 1934. Built of the ubiquitous local red clay brick fired in the area, St Andrews is a charming example of the country chapel, and is still in use by the local community today. As with St Mark's (featured earlier) the small cemetery surrounding the church has graves of local families dating from the original building, right up to the as yet unmarked mounds of earth indicating a recent double interment. 

In the bright early afternoon sun the rich green of the tree on the left, so typical of much foliage in the area with this year's recent late Midlands' rains, contrasts with the turning autumn foliage of the plane tree on the right. It makes a beautiful setting for the weathered facebrick of the church. 

I believe in late autumn the area becomes a colour fanatics delight. I can hardly wait.

iNhlosane ...

On a clear day there is a mountain that dominates the horizonal skyline from our lounge window. Not as tall or majestic as some of the peaks in the nearby Drakensberg range it still somehow makes its presence felt from almost any location within a fairly large radius of our home. A quick visit to the nearby Hilton College - and there it is. From the Karkloof hills - it is present again. From Curry's Post and of course throughout the drive to Dargle this peak is the dominant landform in the valley. It is iNhlosane, the Maiden's Breast, named for its resemblance, as it rises to its rock-clad nipple-like crest to just such a shape. For a somewhat more fanciful explanation of the name you can read the legend of iNhlosane here. Many scholars at the well known Michaelhouse College in the Midlands will be familiar with the mountain - for it is a right of passage for many new entrants to the school to take a day's hike the twenty five or so kilometers from the school precincts to iNhlosane's peak. 

I wanted to capture a clean and simple shot of the mountain, not over exaggerating it's height or scale, and yet still showing how it manages to make its presence felt. So here it is - the Maiden's Breast.

Highlands in the Midlands ...

Except that I didn't see a single midge, it could well have been the Scottish Highlands. 

The annual highlight of events at Fort Nottingham is the Highland Games gathering, and this year was no exception. Sadly the authentic highland weather kept the crowd numbers down, but those that braved the elements and the plentiful mud had a jolly good time. With sports events including the farmers' walk (no walk in the park - trust me!), the kilted mile and the inevitable caber tossing, it was the tug o' war that got the crowds cheering. Those teams who thought that a solid heavyweight anchor at the end of the rope would be enough to ensure victory, found that the slippery conditions put paid to the idea, as many an end o' the liner may as well have worn ski's if there without the backup of a solid well muscled line team. Just ask anyone brave enough to have  taken on the rugby veterans. Collapsing lines of kilted tuggers provided plenty of opportunities to discover what a non-Scotsman wears under his apparel - oh well, it was a family day - while Haggis and Bong, the band variously described as Progressive Celtic Folk or Celtic Metal (either gives you some idea of what to expect) got the crowd awake and alive and oblivious to the comparatively cool air.

Spectators lining the main arena field, below the freshly mown mile course, while the mist wafts through the hills above give some idea of the challenges faced by the gamers this year.

Hay bales ...

Driving along the Curry's Post Road I spotted a field of fresh hay bales - a sure sign of the oncoming change of season. I turned the car around and entered a small side road to park. A popular subject for photographers (go figure!) I decided it would be a worthwhile  challenge to see if I could come up with a new (and different) angle on these objects. Climbing over the first of a series of barbed wire fences (not a great deterrent other than for wind-blown plastic bags) I'd learned to navigate my way over or between the strands of these at about the age of four and I found myself in a field with three distant donkeys. 

Now I don't know a lot about the reputation of these beasts of burden for friendliness, but knowing that they are popularly a traditional children's ride at seaside resorts I decided they would not be too ferocious and that I'd easily get past them to reach my less animate targets. I stood perfectly still for a minute and having sized me up, they started to approach their unexpected visitor. Snap! 

It turned out they were indeed very tame and friendly, eventually surrounding me, with their occasionally flicking ears challenging the buzzing country insects to try to land on them. I nuzzled their muzzles, realised that it's not just the country folk around here who are so approachable, and went back in the direction of my waiting car. Gotta love country life.

And that's the story behind this picture of a field of hay bales. Different angle eh?

Quirky ...

Damn! I just know I'm going to need that title again. From time to time one encounters the somewhat unusual along one's way. Something unexpected or unexplained ... or both. Seemingly abandoned in a field at one of the local country clubs is a pair of mustard coloured stucco horses. At least one and a half times life-sized and rampant, as if posing for inclusion in some coat of arms, these two rearing beasts are actually quite fearsome. What was their original purpose? The neighbouring polo fields certainly confirm the club's equestrian pursuits - but these are hardly your common or garden polo ponies. The more I looked the more I felt that if they unexpectedly sprang to life I'd be in the midst of a scene from an episode of Lord of the Rings. Where is Gandalf when his steed really needs him? Perhaps one day I'll see this beast at work - until then I'll remember him as Shadowfax.

Unable to find an angle at which I could capture the pair without extraneous background clutter (they do deserve a better home), I have tried here to convey that Middle Earth feeling I sensed at the time as well as the dominating size of the 'sculptures' compared to the human scale. Not usually keen on digital photo manipulation I have applied soft focus filtering around the lower edges of the image to add to that sense of other worldliness. I think it is justified here.

The Dargle

A few kilometres south of the N3 highway between Lion's River and Nottingham Road lies the scenic Dargle Valley, or simply The Dargle. Many I have spoken to since announcing my plans of moving to the Midlands have reminisced with such fondness of this area and visible from home, it was inevitable I'd get there before too long. I now understand why it would leave such a lasting impression - it is tranquil, beautiful and offers much to see. The road to Dargle has some of the finest art and craft attractions of the Midlands Meander, whether you are looking for furniture, pottery or visual art. Add a plethora of accommodation, gentler hikes and walks than the deeper Drakensberg mountains hold, rivers and waterfalls, and the warm hospitality of its people and you have everything set for a worthwhile detour, or longer stay. The valley takes its name from the Dargle River (a tributary of the Umngeni) in its turn  named by an early Irish settler after the Dargle Stream near Dublin. The Irish connection is inevitable - but how many shades of green can there possibly be? 

For this image I reverted to panoramic mode to try and capture some hint of the sweeping grandeur of the valley vistas. It is almost impossible to replicate what the eye will absorb - not least the changing hues of colour and the light variation which, with the gathering clouds, changes almost by the second.

Forest ride ....

Almost since the first settlers arrived in the area, forestry has been a significant contributor to the economy of the Midlands - the mistbelt area and the south east slopes particularly suiting and facilitating tree growth. Pine, eucalyptus and wattle are the major species to be found and the wider area contributes close on half of South Africa's 'farmed' hardwood output with some 50% of that being eucalyptus grandis - (one of the better things to come out of Australia). This is predominantly used in the pulp and paper industries. Only a small percentage of the country (0.25%) has indigenous forestation - and the Karkloof Valley is a notable area in this regard. 

Apart from the significant contribution forestry makes to the economy of the country, it adds significantly to the scenic splendour of the region. Many forest roads and paths are accessible to the mountain biker providing challenges from the relatively simple to the downright dangerous.

Here, the day after the Karkloof Classic MTB Festival, a family perhaps having extended their stay in the area takes one of the easier roads through the SAPPI forest lands en route to the Karkloof Falls, one of many scenic attractions the area has to offer. The only hazard here is the dust left by the occasional passing motorist - but further on the rocks and slopes will make the ride something more of an adventure.

Out on a clear bright day I particularly liked the presence here of three distinct generations of forest plantation alongside the road - the tall mature eucalyptus trees to the centre rear being close to harvesting age, those to the left perhaps only three to four years in their cycle. On the right is a young plantation of pine trees - part of the softwood family. Made by man, but who could object? Certainly not the riders who add a slight touch of the human story to the scene, giving a sense of scale to the open vastness of the forest lands.

The MTB Festival

The weather was fine, the conditions were good if a little challenging after the recent rains, but then again, when you're mountain biking you don't expect to keep too clean, do you? For two and a half days the Karkloof Valley was taken over by MTBers - and from a newly arrived local - welcome. Next year I will be there too - in the saddle. For this year it was enough to soak in the atmosphere, and see if the bug would bite. It certainly did. The really great thing about a festival like the Karkloof Classic (and festival describes it well) is that it caters for everyone. Young and old, the lone ranger, men, women, friends and foes, boys and girls and the full family that subscribes to the motto of the family that bikes together sticks together. Heck, there was even a pink bunny girl.

And as I expected there were plenty of photo opportunities. Some two hundred shots later and I'm left wondering which one to use today. Which single image best captures the atmosphere of the day(s)? It couldn't be a solo rider - that's not what it was all about. It wouldn't be a cross country flyer or a downhill racer - although they surely provided some great moments of drama - the reputation of mountain biking being a gonzo sport stays intact! I wanted a shot that caught the colour, the sense of togetherness, the anticipation of getting out there, and most of all the sense of community that prevailed. And so group A in the family 10 K ride - with two minutes to go at the starting line - here is your moment of fame....

It's a Classic...

Once each year in mid to late autumn hundreds of mountain bikers make their way to the Midlands Karkloof area just 12 kilometers north of Howick to take part in three days of events known as the Karkloof Classic. Billed as SA's biggest MTB festival it starts tonight, with a 20 kilometre night-ride event, and continues through the next three days. Included are a serious downhill race, a 60 kilometre marathon and everything in between - even family oriented rides as short as 10 kilometers covering what the organisers claim to be moderate courses for the 'less experienced'. Ten kilometres with a saddle under my rear end still sounds quite daunting to me. And so I will be a spectator this year. Next? We'll, wait and see, but I have been enthused enough to start pricing kit. After all this countryside has some of the best MTB trails the country has to offer, and now I'm a country boy ............

I went down to the country club late this afternoon as registration was in progress. Early arrivals were checking in, the campsite for distant visitors was beginning to fill. And above, behind, inside and alongside most every vehicle in the parking area, a significant investment in metal and rubber was evident.

I liked the abstract composition of these tyres and their spokes (front, rear and front) their charges mounted atop a rugged 4X4 vehicle, displaying them almost in silhouetted profile against the misty grey of the sky. I see the tyres are the latest in 29 inchers - I'm told these have become 'de rigeur' for the serious rider today. Conditions are muddy and wet - which should create some good photo opportunities to show next week.

Come back and see!

St Mark's ...

Much of the family history of country areas can be gleaned from the churches and graveyards to be found there.

One of a number of small local churches, situated a few hundred metres off the Karkloof road is this small Anglican example - St Mark's. Originally built on the farm Shafton, the land is today part of the SAPPI (South African Pulp and Paper Industries) forest lands. The beautifully maintained church was built in 1860. The surrounding graveyard is separated into family allotments, many of the names familiar to local residents to this day. Originally built as a Wesleyan place of worship by landowner James Methley (after whom the well know variety of Methley plum is named) St Marks is now part of the Anglican Diocese of Natal. Services continue to be held here on the first Sunday of each month, and the chapel is still used for weddings - a ceremony seen here since its early construction. Glancing at the tombstones' dates, family members continue to find their resting place in the grounds of St Marks. They surely rest in peace.

The simple lines of the chapel and the weathered tombstones create a subtle chromatic composition in the settling mountain mists, so much a part of the Midlands summer weather.

Gated Communities...

The gates and fences found around the area have a peculiarly quaint charm about them, and I'm certain to feature many more as I (un)cover the rural roads of the Midlands. I wonder what or whom they are supposed to keep out, for many are in a crazy state of disrepair - the locks often broken or rusted to a condition where no key is likely to turn the cylinder and release the hasp. 

My fascination with gates goes back to my (much) younger days when I would be taken to visit farming friends and relatives. Often riding in the back of a farm vehicle or bakkie, we kids would jump out on the approach to a gate, and race to be the first to open the way for the vehicle to pass along the road. These gates were primarily on farmlands where cattle were ranched, and usually below the gate would be a grid of iron bars to act as further deterrence to cattle, should some young 'un forget to close the gate in their haste to catch up and jump back aboard the now passed through bakkie. 

Having come to the Midlands from a life in the city the term of 'gated communities' is a little (although deliberately) misapplied here. The somewhat lower levels of crime around these parts take some adjustment, and whilst complacency should never take over I guess, I'm learning to lower my guard just a little. 

I recall that a keen photographer family friend would often travel inland from the coast in search of interesting cloud formations. I'm beginning to understand that. I think too that the rickety gates and the thin criss cross lines of the aerial telephone wires add definite visual interest to this scene of rural tranquillity - in a 'Man was here' kind of way! 

Treeline

Driving through South Africa I am often fascinated by trees. Sometimes it is a solitary specimen that has me asking how it came to be where it is - a lonely weeping willow at the roadside of a national highway, or a dead blue gum trunk presumably struck by lightning - its remains still defiantly standing erect. So often the formation of a clump of trees adds great interest to an otherwise boring landscape (why does the Free State come to mind?). And then there are those frequently seen rows of trees, implausibly positioned along the ridge of some distant hill or kopje looking for all the world like a mohawk haircut in but not of nature. Today what caught my eye was a simple row of blue gums - an obvious wind break alongside agricultural lands. And one solitary hay bale - I could not help but wonder where its siblings had gone and why this one remained behind. In panoramic mode, I tried to keep the composition to the photographer's 'rule of thirds'. 

I think it works.

Inspiration ......

Having recently moved to live in the Midlands of KwaZulu Natal, South Africa I have been awestruck by both the beauty and the attractions of the area. 

There is a 'movement' called Daily Photo where each day a blogger somewhere in the world posts an image reflecting life in the various cities and locations they inhabit and appreciate. Having sworn to develop my skills (whether great or small) with a camera I'll share my captured images and reflections with whoever finds this site. 

While I cannot promise to be diligent enough to post an image daily, I'll certainly try - for there is no question there is more than enough in this region to ensure I keep those camera batteries charged and discharged more regularly than I ever did before.

Starting close to home this first photo was taken of the road leading to a local country restaurant - closed at the time, so I cannot comment on whether or not the food would justify the journey. The view and bucolic rural atmosphere almost makes that irrelevant!